From the skies to the Spice Bazaar, Travel Edge Senior Copywriter Julie Xie explores Istanbul with Turkish Airlines.
Words & photos by: Julie Xie
"I'm so envious, I wish I was going on this trip. It sounds amazing." Mr. Ugur, the Turkish Airlines Sales Manager who had come to see us off at the airport remarked, handing back my passport and boarding pass. I didn't blame him – I could hardly believe it myself when I got the call inviting me on a four-day trip to Istanbul as a guest of Turkish Airlines. Not a stranger to luxury, the airline was pulling out all the stops for this whirlwind trip, with roundtrip business class flights, luxurious 5-star accommodations and jam-packed itineraries filled with private tours and enriching activities. It sounded like a dream. And so, with a final wave, my travel companions and I bid Mr. Ugur farewell and glided through the gates.
As this was my first Business Class experience, I was extra attentive to all the details. Details such as the generous amount of legroom on my fully flat seat, and the plush cabin slippers placed neatly on my footrest. Details like the Ferragamo leather travel pouch deposited on my tray table, containing a curation of self-care essentials like facial mist, lip balm, dental products, soft socks, and a contoured eye mask. Details like the tray of welcome beverages that made its way around the cabin during boarding, which I enjoyed about 3 sips of before it was swiftly whisked away once boarding had been completed.
I had flown out of Toronto Pearson Airport numerous times before, but somehow, watching the panoramic cityscape disappear from 3 different windows as we took off–thanks to the spacious open-concept Business Class seating–made it feel like a brand-new experience. Something akin to watching a movie in IMAX for the first time. Once we had achieved cruising altitude, a flight attendant came around to take our dinner orders. "Ms. Xie, what can I get you to drink?" What a nice feeling it was to be addressed by name on a flight – a definite upgrade from the anonymity of "Chicken or pasta?" Speaking of meal options, the Turkish Airlines Flying Chefs (who, by the way, are real chefs on board each flight, dressed immaculately in chef whites) had curated an incredible 3-course menu with a variety of options, including scrumptious vegetarian courses, which I couldn't wait to try.
Dinner started with the arrival of my drinks: a homemade mint lemonade and a crisp glass of Champagne. A basket of pillow-soft bread then materialized, still warm from the oven. I helped myself to a triangular olive bread roll, its generous olive chunks glistening like gemstones as I tore it open. My appetizers followed shortly: a fresh mozzarella and tomato salad on a bed of pesto sauce, and a creamy zucchini soup sprinkled with herbed croutons. The main course was a rich mushroom ravioli coated in decadent mushroom sauce, tossed with button mushrooms, juicy grape tomatoes, and thick shavings of Parmesan. Although I didn't think I could take another bite (I may have already eaten a small dinner at the airport lounge prior to boarding), I also could not say no to dessert, and so a refreshing mango ice cream with drizzles of chocolate sauce appeared before me. The meal was spectacular, nothing short of a fine dining experience, complete with tablecloths and sparkling silverware. The only thing that may have outshone the food? A paper lantern containing an electric candle, with the words "Candlelight dinner high above the clouds" inscribed on it, which flickered on our trays throughout the meal.
Once dinner service had completed, the flight attendants came around to turn our seats into beds: a quilted mattress pad was strapped to the seat, and lightweight blankets and fluffy pillows were placed neatly on the footrest. I contemplated starting a Harry Potter movie, as the entertainment included not only the usual new releases and popular blockbusters but also an impressive catalog of movie series and anthologies. But before long, the dimmed lights and cozy atmosphere of my now fully-reclined bed got the better of me, and I drifted off into what was undoubtedly the best sleep I had ever gotten on any airplane.
I awoke a few hours later, startled from having forgotten I was flying (it was that comfortable) and feeling quite parched. I was also surprisingly sweaty. Being too warm on a plane was not an experienced I was accustomed to – it's usually quite the opposite. I guess Business Class must be where they keep all the heat. It was necessary to have a bottle of water close by to rehydrate in between bouts of sleep. Shortly before we were set to land, I awoke to the bright light of window shades being raised and a voice greeting me with, "Good morning, would you like some breakfast?"
Another round of gourmet dishes appeared, this time led by sliced fruits, yogurt with honey, and a sample of veggies and cheese. I picked out a freshly baked cinnamon roll from the basket of pastries, which was accompanied by my main breakfast order of veggie and cheese omelet folded over a bed of potatoes. For a little boost, I also ordered an Energizer Tea from their Wellness Tea menu, which contained green tea, mint and ginger. All too soon, our captain announced our descent into Istanbul, "the meeting point of the world", and I found myself feeling a little wistful that the flight was coming to an end.
My main takeaway from the Turkish Airlines Business Class experience was that despite its hefty price tag, business class actually solved a majority of the complaints associated with flying, i.e. not getting quality sleep, traditionally bad airplane food, feeling confined in a tiny space, etc. I had to admit, I was now a complete convert and fully understood the appeal of flying business, especially on a red-eye flight when you're traveling for work and need to hit the ground running. To sweeten the deal, Turkish Airlines has a fantastic (and practically unheard of) stopover program whereby passengers with a long layover in Istanbul can stay overnight for free at a partner hotel and enjoy the opportunity to explore Istanbul. Business Class passengers are eligible for up to 2 free nights in a 5-star hotel, while Economy Class passengers can enjoy a complimentary 1-night stay in a 4-star hotel.
Arriving at the state-of-the-art Istanbul airport, I was stunned by the modern and minimal design, with high vaulted ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows that let in incredible light. We were greeted by a warm welcome crew, who immediately took care of our luggage and facilitated a seamless handover to our driver. Having a designated driver pick us up made the journey so much smoother – I could feel the stress and mental load that usually comes with navigating a new city after a long flight just melt off my shoulders. On the drive into Istanbul, I gazed out the windows at miles and miles of verdant rolling hills and greenery until suddenly the city came into view, its buildings stacked like terracotta-colored Lego pieces. Finally, we had arrived.
Checking in at the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus Hotel set the stage for the ultra-luxurious experience that awaited us over the next few days. A kind hotel staff member walked me through the check-in process while I sat in a large, plush armchair in the waiting area. After signing some paperwork and placing a significant hold on my credit card for incidental fees, he informed me that I had been upgraded to the Mandarin Bosphorus Room, which came with dazzling views of the Bosphorus Strait, famously the only body of water that straddled two continents.
The hall leading to my room was long, quiet, and infused with the hotel's signature citrus scent, which greeted me each time I stepped out into the hallway, and which I could probably recognize to this day. My room was a spacious sanctuary with a fully stocked mini bar, work desk, walk-in closet, balcony overlooking the pool and the Bosphorus, and a king size bed that I couldn't wait to sink into. The marble clad bathroom contained both a pristine tub and separate shower room with built-in seating (should you need to sit while you scrubbed). Two fluffy Turkish cotton bathrobes hung from the wall and the bathroom was stocked with fig-scented Diptyque toiletries. Laid out on the coffee table were chrome dishes stacked with Turkish delight, macarons, baklava, and a variety of fruits, including mandarins, dragon fruit, kiwi and a giant mango.
As keen as I was to enjoy my new opulent surroundings, I couldn't dilly dally as my travel companions were waiting downstairs to go explore central Istanbul with the rare free time we had been given for the rest of that day. We jumped into an Uber and zoomed into the Old Town, windows rolled down so we could fully take in the sights, sounds, and scents of Istanbul on this gorgeous sunny afternoon. Strolling through the streets of Old Town, I had my first encounter with the famous street cats of Istanbul. They say you can tell a lot about a person by the way they treat animals. Well, after witnessing how the Turkish people cared for and looked after their stray cats like it was their collective responsibility, I was deeply moved by their kindness and thoughtfulness. These street cats had their basic needs provided for, from bowls of food and water placed outside the shops and cafes, to makeshift cat houses that they could retreat into.
Along the city's waterfront, the late afternoon sun was bathing everything in the most glorious golden light. The silver blue domes of the city's mosques, in particular, caught my eye, as the gold ornamental details glinted majestically. Down by the water, an array of food vendors stirred up a cacophony of smells, from salted fried fish and grilled corn to smokey roasted chestnuts and sweet glazed donuts. Likewise, at the cavernous Spice Bazaar, an overwhelming selection of spices, teas, and every variation of Turkish Delight and baklava imaginable winked invitingly from their glass display cases.
After an attempt at haggling over dried fruits did not procure the desired results, we left the market empty-handed and hurried through the thick of the Old Town towards the day's final destination, Hagia Sophia. The former church, turned mosque, turned museum, turned back to mosque was glowing in the final rays of sunlight, illuminating the gorgeous patina-pink and blue facades. Across the way, the stunning Blue Mosque glowed, equally as majestic. We hung around until after sundown for the call to prayer, which was so profound to witness while standing between two of the world's most impressive mosques.
Dinner back at the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus that night was a decadent affair. We were seated by the windows, affording us an incredible night view of the inky Bosphorus and glittering lights on the opposite shore. A basket of bread was placed on the table and when the waiter heard me exclaim how much I loved the breadsticks, he immediately returned with another heaping basket piled high with them. My dinner of eggplant and ricotta-filled ravioli was delicious, but the true star of the meal that night was dessert. Possibly the most perfect crème brulée I've ever tasted, it was made up of light-as-air custard and a crispy caramelized crust, accompanied by a magical mandarin sorbet that somehow captured both the sweetness of the fruit and the slight bitterness of the mandarin peel all at once.
Back in my room, turn down service had been provided, and the bowl of fruit on my coffee table seemed to have grown in my absence! The rain shower was an absolute dream, providing the perfect water pressure and making me feel like I was in a floor-to-ceiling marble spa. Wrapped in the cozy Turkish cotton bathrobe, I finally sank into the cloud-like bed, set my alarm for morning and drifted off to sleep.